On The Road
February / March, 2012
Dazzling Waters Highlight Oregon's Inland Beauty
Crater Lake National Park has been on our must-see list for years. Now that we are summering on the Oregon Coast, it is mere hours instead of days away.
By Rose Muenker
Brilliant as a sapphire gemstone, Crater Lake sparkles under the bright sun. Early morning, its surface is as smooth as glass except for a hairline crack etched by the wake of a tour boat, the only watercraft permitted in the lake.
Crater Lake National Park sits about two hours east of Roseburg in southwestern Oregon. Our route takes us an hour up the coast before crossing the forested Coast Range. Inland, the chilly ocean air becomes a distant memory as we ride into the searing heat that most of the country has been enduring. At Roseburg, we start to follow the Rogue-Umpqua Scenic Byway, known for its many waterfalls.
Tumbling Waters
Before nightfall, we pitch our tent in Susan Creek Campground. With paved access roads, hot showers, and well planned, shaded sites separated by shrubs, this is a showcase Bureau of Land Management campground. Pea gravel groundcover makes for comfortable tent camping and a clean environment. After we settle into our cozy tent, the rhythmic sound of the Umpqua River lulls us to sleep.
From delicate ribbons to walls of water, each of the cascades along the North Umpqua segment of the Rogue-Umpqua Scenic Byway sports a different look. We especially enjoy our outing to Watson Falls, the highest in southwest Oregon. The trail winds along a creek, over a wooden bridge and up through a forest, revealing the cascade from different viewpoints. Near the top, a refreshing mist tickles our faces. A concrete slab with railing provides a secure spot to admire the glistening cascade while bathing in its spray. Emerald green moss carpets the rocks below.
From Rim to Shore
More than 1,900 feet deep, Crater Lake is the deepest lake in North America. The royal blue waters mirror the crater's craggy lava slopes. During our two days in the park, sunlight and clear air create stellar views.
On 33-mile Rim Drive, sights and their monikers stir the imagination. Wizard Island does indeed resemble a sorcerer's pointed hat with wide brim. Likewise, the jagged rock formation offshore called Phantom Ship looks like a ghostly pirate vessel lost at sea. A splash of brilliant color brightens a gray slope where fanciful orange rock formations create Pumice Castle.
The idea of seeing the crater from aboard a tour boat captures our interest until we find out how difficult it is to get tickets. Half of them are sold online (and were sold out before the season began). The rest are sold daily at the trailhead booth--first-come, first-served.
Instead of playing the odds of getting tickets in peak season, we opt to see the crater from the lakeshore by hiking the switchback trail down to the boat dock. Lots of other folks have the same idea. On the shore, young adults climb atop rugged boulders and jump into the frigid water. As I watch passengers squeeze onto wood benches for a two-hour tour in an open air, sun-drenched boat, I feel relieved not to be going.
Back on Rim Drive, we seek out a place to picnic. Snow from the winter's record 649 inches still blankets much of the park, blocking access to most picnic areas. When we finally spot an accessible table in the midst of a snow bank, we plop down on the exposed wooden bench for a lunch topped off with juicy watermelon.
In Rim Village, we admire the iconic view of Crater Lake, browse in the gift shop and stroll through the lodge's Great Hall, complete with logs blazing in the stone fireplace despite the summer heat. That night at our campsite, we keep a fire going too, but more to smoke out the voracious mosquitoes than for aesthetics.
Before departing Crater Lake, we hike to Plikni Falls. Cushioned with pine needles, the 2.2-mile path leads through an oldgrowth forest. The end of the trail rewards us with a full view of the shimmering cascade and the chance to cool our overheated feet in the icy water. Another hike takes us to the Pinnacles- pointed, gray rock formations that stand in a canyon like sentinels.
Disapearing River
Back on the scenic byway, we head southwest to more highlights--the Rogue Gorge and Natural Bridge. In the Rogue Gorge, the river's wild waters squeeze through a 25-foot wide chasm. A mile downriver, the Rogue disappears underground at Natural Bridge--a flat slab of rock connecting the riverbanks. After a short subterranean trip, the Rogue River reemerges through a lava tub and continues its 184-mile journey to the Pacific.
At this point, we head back to the coast, arriving in time to see a fiery red ball of sun drop into the ocean.
IF YOU GO
Crater Lake National Park
nps.gov/crla/
Rogue-Umpqua Scenic Byway
blm.gov/or/districts/roseburg/recreation/ScenicByway/
Travel Oregon
Traveloregon.com
Rose and David Muenker, a travel writer-photographer team, are traveling the roads of North America by motor home. Read about their adventures in every issue of Out of Denver and on their blog davidandrose.com. Email them at rose.muenker@gmail.com.
|
