DINING OUT OF DENVER

June / July, 2010

Get Fresh at Pesce Fresco

Pesce (PEH-shay), as locals call it, is a chic neighborhood Italian bistro with a relaxed atmosphere. Tucked in an unlikely spot in a mini strip mall on Quebec Street just north of Arapahoe Road, it can be easy to miss. But you don't want to miss this one.

By Jeanne Welsh

The essence of Tuscany engulfs you as you step inside Pesce Fresco. Saffron walls highlight Italian objets d'art and pictures of rolling hillsides. Carefully adjusted lighting creates warmth yet makes reading the menu unproblematic. Tables are close but not intrusively so. Sound comfy? It is.

Chefs Paul Stickler and Erin Abromeit took the reins from Joel and Merilee Diner last January and have maintained its well-deserved accolades. With his background at some of the most prestigious restaurants in the Denver area, most recently McCormick's, and hers as an award-winning pastry chef at Daniels of Paris in Aurora, you can expect good eats.

Arguably the most innovative item on the menu is the Beet Terrine, a layered salad of beets and ricotta topped with pistachios that delivers an unexpected but natural sweetness to the palate. The Caprese salad of organic tomatoes, mozzarella and basil is upgraded with a drizzle of balsamic vinegar reduction. The deep rich broth from the bowl of mussels begs for a soup spoon. Entrées include fish creations and Italian-inspired meat dishes. Striped Lobster Ravioli accompanied with roasted artichokes is as lovely to eat as it is to look at. Zuppa de Pesce is Chef Paul's take on Cioppino, deep with flavor. Rigatoni and Sausage is one of the more colorful plates with just enough kick to make it interesting. A wine suggestion accompanies each superbly crafted presentation.

No room for dessert? You'll change your mind when you taste the Tiramisu. Melt-in-your-mouth fabulous. There's always a chocolate dessert, be it molten lava cake, chocolate crème brulé, or something new from Abromeit's repertoire.

Chef Stickler focuses on buying local and organic and soon will offer a Farmer's Market Dinner. "We like supporting local growers and buying sustainable and organic foods," he said. Lunch is served from Tuesdays through Fridays so worker bees can refuel in style. Happy Hour is from 4:30 to 6:30 with drinks and small plates for no more than $6. Grab a seat on the patio and meet Erin and Paul. You're gonna like it here.

Pesce Fresco
6600 S. Quebec Street
Centennial, CO 80111
303-290-9705
Pescefrescobistro.com

Jeanne Welsh is a longtime resident of south metro Denver with a passion for creative cooking and careful consumption. Reach her at JeanneWelsh@aol.com.